April 2019
This Islamic state although small in size is very rich economically because of its oil and gas reserves and a small population to support. It is an absolute monarchy with the sultan as the head of state and it has its advantages too. Looking at the aerial view, it seems that infrastructures are neatly arranged and forests which covers approximately 70% of the land area are tucked in between and/or around communities. Cultivated areas are small since Brunei doesn’t depend on farming for their income. Although the Brunei International airport is not that large it is very modern. Many people in Brunei have their own cars so there isn’t any taxi in the airport but for tourists and migrant workers there are APVs, vans and mini buses. And because Brunei is an Islamic State, citizens are predominantly muslims and there is even a mosque right beside the airport.
The most ubiquitous structures in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan exhibiting impressive islamic architecture are the various mosques visited not only by the faithful but also by tourists. One of the most stunning mosques is the National Mosque, Jame’ Asr Hassanil Bolkiah. It is the Largest mosque in Brunei with a pair of magnificent fountains outside and has 29 golden domes in honor of the 29th Sultan HM Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu’izzaddin Waddaulah.
Another most-frequented mosque, the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is considered as Brunei’s Star. It was named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei and probably the most famous landmark of the city. It has a lagoon with a 16th century royal barge. Brunei Darussalam Heritage Trail includes a tour of the mosque, museums and garden in the vicinity of this magnificent structure; it has marble minarets, all white facade, and a golden dome reflected on the water of the lagoon when viewed from the waterfront. A pedicab may be rented to go around the heritage area.
On the other side across the street towards the river is the water village, Kampung Ayer very much like the Badjao settlement because people live in stilt houses in the Brunei River. They have formed a community with their own mosque, school, police station, fire station and restaurants. It has become one of the attractions of the city. There are water taxis (speed boats) to move around.
Other attractions in the city are the museums, particularly the Royal Regalia Museum where everything that were used when the sultan was enthroned are being kept. It includes gifts from leaders all over the world. Unfortunately, no picture-taking is allowed. When guests enter the exhibition area, bags, cameras and cellphones are surrendered to the staff who are very, very strict.
The magnificence of the gifts are beyond my vocabulary to describe. Some are in the form of precious stones, jewelries, gold and silver symbolic weapons, wood, stone and metal sculptures, something very precious that best represents the country where the gift is from. The president of the Philippines gave a sculpted figure encrusted with mother-of-pearl.
We also visited the home of the sultan of Brunei or his official residence known as Istana Nurul Iman but only up to the closed gate actually. The palace is said to be spectacular and costs more than 1B$. It is surrounded by a steel fence, its black steel adorned with golden painted accents. The gates are also adorned with the Map of Brunei, the Royal Emblem as well as the personal emblem of the Ruling Sultan.
They say that gold in Brunei is cheap, but I don’t really know because I’m not very fond of gold jewelries although I keep some gifts and hand-me-downs but I’m not keen on buying. Some of our colleagues though have prepared to buy ‘for investment’ so we visited one of the well-known jewelry stores in the city. I don’t know anything about jewelries but I also bought a pair of ear rings, a bracelet, necklace and a casio watch as souvenir. Since it was almost Ramadan and we were accompanied by the staff of our country’s military attache, we were given a considerable discount. I chose the most affordable set, which was probably not such a good choice ‘investment-wise’ because the price of gold tends to increase. Anyway I’m not really a business person so it’s ok but our colleagues were really happy with their gold investments.
We were lucky that our coordinator’s friend is our country’s Defense Attache at the time, so we were met by his staff at the airport and we were able to visit the embassy. The ambassador was not there that time so we were not able to meet him, but the staff were certainly happy to see fellow Filipinos visiting.
We were treated to a sumptuous lunch in a nice restaurant. In the evening, we enjoyed a superb dinner, eating Filipino food, singing and dancing at the house of the dignitary.
We also visited one of the attractions in the City of Bandar Seri Begawan, the Empire Hotel which exhibits Brunei opulence from its gold-gilded marble columns, glittering chandeliers, having its own cinema and golf course and royalties can be counted among its guests. At the time we visited, one of the princes of Brunei (cousin of the crown prince) was having a good time with friends and their Filipina nanny was in the lobby waiting until her ward decides it’s time to go home. The nanny related that she has taken cared of the prince since he was born and she goes wherever the prince goes that’s why she was able to live in different countries in Europe to take care of the prince. But they also travel with many escorts who were also with her stationed in different areas of the hotel to guard the prince. The Hotel is certainly palatial with the vast area it covers unlike other hotel structures, it was designed with a lot of open spaces, huge and long staircases, and facing the ocean making it a prime destination of the those who can afford. Although we can’t afford to stay in a hotel like this, the staff didn’t mind us taking photos as long as we don’t cause any trouble.
We stayed in a capsule hotel not so far from the airport situated in a compound with numerous but diverse businesses. Luckily there is a tiny Chinese restaurant just in front of the building where we were staying. They serve delicious but very affordable food because many employees nearby usually have their breakfast and lunch there.
The city is clean and orderly and the people are disciplined. Condominiums are common in Brunei. The structures are not so modern but not so old as well. The more modern homes are located in more private subdivisions but the structures also have uniform designs. Other structures in the city have modest sizes including some hotels, shopping malls and the university.
Other notable observations of Brunei is the importance they give to nature. They have forest parks all over and although fuel is very cheap and people don’t pay taxes, traffic jam is non-existent. It’s also very evident how they value tradition, religion, discipline and education.
Finally it’s time to leave and be grateful for another experience with a different place and culture. It’s time to say: “terima kasih” (thank you) and bid Brunei “selamat tinggal” (goodbye).
Images: Other Journeys 